Great American Road Trip: Part 4

8:38 a.m. Tulsa, OK, Storm Clouds with lightning, 76* and humid

As we headed out of Tulsa towards St. Louis, MO, somehow we got on the wrong highway (this is our first day without a Trip Tik map from AAA). We quickly turned around and found our way back. Tulsa looks like it has been hit hard by the economic downturn with many boarded up businesses along the route.

9:00 a.m. Exited Tulsa, heavy rain and lightning

Best road sign in OK: Do not drive into smoke. Huh?

More rolling hills and oak and other deciduous trees. This is a lovely part of the country.

9:40 a.m. Toll booths--we've outrun the storm after some very severe rain and excellent (though white knuckle) driving.


10:15 Missouri welcomes us! High clouds, 73*

We quickly took exit one and drove the 1/2 mile to cross the Kansas state line, u-turned and headed back out to the interstate. Matt remembers with regret not driving the 18 miles into Montana when he was a kid on a cross country road trip and decided to not miss the opportunity to pass into another state. We are in the Ozark mountains (though they look more like hills to me) and are quite scenic and lush with large queen-anne's lace-filled meadows (and cows).

11:25 a.m. Springfield, MO, Cloudy 79*

Owen's complaining of a tummy ache. Willa explained that that's what happens when you ride in the third row and that yesterday she "barfed in my mouth a couple of times." Lovely.

12:36 Pit stop somewhere in MO at a route 66 themed rest stop and welcome center. We've learned that these generally have the best amenities, including clean bathrooms, picnic areas and even dog parks and playgrounds. This one had a mock route 66 path, lined with businesses (roofed picnic tables). We ate our lunch in a car repair shop and afterwards the kids ran up and down the "road" with the dog burning some energy while visiting each shop.

Best MO sign: "Hit a worker, $10,000 fine, lose your license."

1:45 p.m. St. Louis 100 miles away. Clouds and sun, 81* and muggy

This stretch of road is a bizarre mix of Route 66 nostalgic diners and shops, adult video stores (even a men's spa--yuck) and ranches with tin-roofed farmhouses...and wineries.

2:33 p.m. We've been in a traffic stop on the Interstate for 10 minutes so far. There are only about 50 cars in front of us, but we can't quite figure out what is happening.

2:42 p.m. We're moving again. Apparently the road narrowed so much so that a truck and RV got stuck together on a bridge. Fantastic.

3:25 p.m. We can see the famous St. Louis arch, then shortly thereafter, cross into Illinois. Next stop: Cahokia.

3:32 p.m. Arrival at Cahokia. We had a lovely time exploring the smallish interpretive center where we learned all about this Mississippian culture that thrived around 1000 AD. They built huge mounds on the site for ceremonial and other purposes. At its peak, about 20,000 people lived in its jurisdiction, making it one of the largest cities in the world at the time. The largest mound, Monk's Mound, took 300 years to complete and was the home of the chief. Its footprint is larger than any other pyramid structure at 14 acres and it stands about 100 feet tall. We climbed to the top, which gave a spectacular view of St. Louis and several other smaller mounds in the vicinity.

It felt really good to climb all those stairs (144) after sitting in the car for so many hours.

5:10 Departing Cahokia, looking for a Cracker Barrel. Matt's lamenting the 65 MPH speed limit. We see one! Exiting the Interstate...

6:40 Left Cracker Barrel (classic southern comfort food where veggie sides to choose from include mac and cheese, fried cinnamon apples, and mashed potatoes), $100 poorer. Dinner wasn't so expensive, but there is an adorable little gift shop with country "treasures and toys" attached. So everyone needed a little treat. Willa got a battery operated hamster that runs around a little wheel...and a whoopie cushion, Ben got a bubble gun, Owen got another Webkins, I got some peanut butter balls, and Matt got a book that is so incredibly perfect for him called "The Next Exit" that details each amenity at each exit on every major interstate in the country.

8:37---9:37 (Eastern time) Welcome to Indiana! 75* and Cloudy

10:20 p.m. Arrive at the Days Inn in Cloverdale Indiana

It is a huge step up from the Motel 6s we've been staying at. The room seems HUGE, it has a fridge, a microwave, a coffee pot and a HAIR DRIER!!! I am so thrilled, but a little surprised that we lost yet another hour....ugh.

Miles traveled: 600. Kids are still in amazingly good spirits.

Great American Road Trip: Part 3

7:15 a.m. Santa Fe Farmers' Market

I had a lovely, albeit brief, visit to the market this morning. Our car is so crammed, I only purchased a few things; mulberries, New Mexican chile powder, Anasazi beans (dried) and apple cake.


8:30 a.m. Departing Santa Fe, Cloudy 67*

Matt had a bit of trouble packing up the car, but is satisfied that his "visuals are better than the first day." Our hotel was comfortable and much quieter than last night's. The scenery is stunning--blue green sagebrush, golden-green grass and rocky pueblo-dotted hillsides.

9:20 I-40, Cloudy 65*

Just saw two signs advertising Amarillo--1 for the 2nd largest canyon in America (and you can drive in!!) and the other for a dinner theater featuring "Amarillo, the Musical." I woke up a little Hungover from the "best margaritas in Santa Fe" and swollen from a salty meal and couldn't deal with coffee, but now am feeling tired and suffering from lack of caffeine.

10:20 Santa Rosa, NM, Clouds and Sun, 75*

Mc Donald's for a quick pit stop and coffee. Matt got out some trail mix from the back of our car and it took him a good 2 minutes to get the hatch to shut again....

Favorite sign in New Mexico: Gusty winds may exist.


11:41----12:41 (Central Time Zone) Welcome to Texas! Cloudy, 85*

Owen requested a county music soundtrack for our drive through Texas and DJ Mama is happy to oblige. Texas is FLAT and quite prairy-ish (is that a word?) and looks a lot like where I grew up. (Oakdale, CA).

1:08 p.m. I'm totally into this Texas thing. We're singing along (loudly) to the Dixie Chicks, Tim McGraw, Travis Trit and Brooks and Dunn. Who knew I had so much country on my ipod? I guess you can take the girl out of the country, but not the country out of the girl. My cowboy hat is on and my hair is in braids.


1:45 p.m. Cadillac Graveyard just outside Amarillo, Cloudy, 83*, and muggy as heck.

The CG is a ridiculously perfect example of random things one sees on a road trip . It comes up suddenly, and is a row of about 10 old Caddies, planted in the ground and spray painted. Someone shared their cans of spray paint with us and the kids got to practice their tagging skills, which will give them much street cred when we get back to the "hood."

Afterwards, we headed straight to Dyer's BBQ, an Amarillo restaurant, popular with the locals. Although we didn't see anyone with a handlebar moustache (like we did in Santa Fe), we did see plenty of cowboy hats and boots and even some overalls.

3:02 p.m. Back to the interstate after a quick lunch at Dyer's. The kid's chicken plate came with chicken strips, fries, toast (the Texas kind, of course) and gravy. Matt and I split the rib plate that included 3 large pork ribs, cole slaw, onion rings, potato salad, beans and apricots (like applesauce) for $8.95. We also enjoyed Texas Tea (ice tea and lemonade). The meal was good and cost us all of $24--less than McDonald's!

Favorite Texas road sign: Don't mess with Texas, litter and pay a fine of up to $1000.

4:27 p.m. Welcome to Oklahoma! Partly Cloudy, 89*

5:02 p.m. Back on the interstate after a quick stop in to the Oklahoma Welcome Center and rest stop with a dog park...how cool is that? We met a couple from Pennsylvania that are truck drivers and they stop there every week on their way back from California. Two days there, two days back...then three days off. Wow! The rest stop had the nicest bathrooms we've seen on the entire trip, including our hotel rooms. Wonderful! (It's the little things, you see...) Cricket loved the chance to run around and bark at the perimeter of the park, guarding her peeps, just like home.

6:37 p.m. Cloudy and 87*, somewhere just outside Oklahoma City

Before the trip we bought season one of the Amazing Race for the kids to enjoy on the road. And Matt and I have always said that this road trip is our "Amazing Race." We're mostly racing against crazy...just waiting for it to catch up to us. Well, tonight, it caught up to Willa, in a big way.

Owen had just spotted the animal he has been dreaming of seeing on the trip. For Ben, it was the Condor, Owen has been obsessed with armadillos. Unfortunately, the armadillo we spotted was dead, and so was the next one, and the next one and the one after that. Apparently, Oklahoma is a roadkill wonderland, if I might be so bold as to call it that, and we saw all manner of dead things including several armadillos, a fox(?), a dog, a raccoon and a headless deer (that was super stinky....). Shortly after we passed the deer, Willa burst into tears and cried hysterically for the better part of the next hour. Evidently she was deeply saddened by all the dead things (or just needing an excuse to have a good cry). When she started banging her head with an empty water bottle and throwing things around in the car, we hurriedly decided to pull off the road at the next exit. Everyone was hungry and we had been searching for a Waffle House for dinner (Owen just had to have a waffle). But times were desperate and we needed to get off the road, come hell or Waffle House.

Luckily for us, there was a Waffle House at the exit and order was restored to the universe once more.

8:02 p.m. We're done with our dinner and it's still 84* and damn humid and windy. We're just out of Oklahoma city and the landscape is filled with rolling hills that are densely covered with oak trees. We've all recovered, especially Willa, who happily tucked into her $1 waffle and extra large orange juice (gotta keep healthy now). Dinner (for 5) cost less than $20, which explains why it is a road tripper's dream.

Tulsa is a mere 92 miles away. We have no idea where we are staying tonight...should be interesting.

9:15 Tulsa, Oklahoma.

We made it and decided on Motel 6 again. Room is the cleanest we have had so far. Kids are bouncing off the freaking walls.

Miles traveled today: 637. We're half way there! Whew!

Farmers' Market Report...Santa Fe

Santa Fe is a magical place full of rolling sage-covered hills, adobe architecture and excellent food. The farmers' market is a direct reflection of the healthy, natural lifestyle of the folks who call it home, and the sheer volume of vendors speaks to the interest residents have for supporting local agriculture. There were a variety of organic fruit and vegetable growers, as well as artisanal bakers, and meat vendors selling organic eggs, chickens, beef, pork, goat, bison, elk and yak meats.

At 7 a.m. the market was already bustling with eager shoppers, young and old alike. Held in a completely rebuilt train station and outdoors on the platform, each vendor had a beautiful display of locally made goods and produce. It smelled of lavender, patchouli and baked goods and I wished I could stay around longer. I guess I'll just have to visit again.

Great American Road Trip: Part 2

Flagstaff, Sunny 65*

After a morning filled with McCafe, packing and re-packing the car, and a brief stop-in to visit friends who just relocated from New Jersey to Flagstaff (that's their adorable son), we're on the road once more. The car has been reconfigured so both Owen and Willa are in the back row and bags are piled in the middle row next to Ben. Matt's "visibility is even better than yesterday's!"

Some lessons I've learned so far:

1. Even when you are really, really tired, the train at 5:15 a.m. can still wake you up.
2. Budget motels lack certain "basics" like clocks, lotion and hair dryers...
3. My kids are super awesome travelers. (Hoping not to jinx that last one)

We are driving parallel to the Santa Fe Railroad and huge cargo trains pass by every 15 minutes or so. The terrain has gone from pine mountains in Flagstaff, to yellow plains to red, rocky earth. Matt's holding firmly to the steering wheel as huge gusts of wind are threatening to blow us right over. I wonder how the big rigs manage to stay upright?

11:18 Rock just chipped our windshield right in the middle of the driver's side. Minor cursing and sighing and rueful chuckles ensued. "Hazard of the road, what can you do?" says Matt.

11:38 Holbrook, Sunny 79*

We're heading towards the south entrance of the Petrified Forest National Park for a 28 mile drive through.

12:00 p.m. Petrified Forest National Park, elevation 5100-6235 feet, sunny, 79*

Petrified log


In front of the incredible Painted Desert

1:55 Back on the road (I-40). The Petrified Forest and Painted Desert were spectacular, but everything takes longer than we think it will--for example a planned one hour stop was two hours. But kids earned their Junior Ranger badge and we got a National Park passport (that would have been good for the Grand Canyon..but oh well). We just realized that New Mexico is one hour ahead because it is on Mountain Time, so our arrival will be even later than we thought. I just hope to have time to walk around the Plaza and get a great margarita and some traditional South West cuisine at a good restaurant. Matt and I feed the kids some peanut butter sandwiches and have a bagged Caesar salad from Trader Joe's. Not half bad.

Matt and I discuss the signage referring to Native Americans (or Native Peoples) as being very "Indian" focused rather than "Native" focused, and thought it was interesting. It seems that western Native Persons embrace the Indian label much more readily than eastern natives. We hear about severe weather through Oklahoma (where we are heading tomorrow) including some tornadoes. (But tonight we are hearing about a "ring of fire" in the plains and lots of dry heat).

2:30 (3:30) Welcome to New Mexico, Sunny 79*

Here there are huge rock plateaus with all kinds of crazy caves dug out, and it is much greener than northern Arizona.

3:44 Passed a big truck with a "Milk sucks, Got margaritas?" bumper sticker

4:32 Owen is frustrated because he seems to have lost his headphones. After five minutes of angry complaining and "looking" (and ignoring my suggestions of where to look), I somehow manage to climb over Ben and piles of bags to the third row and quickly retrieve this earphones from under his seat. If I don't climb in the back seat for something at least once a day, this road trip won't really be complete.

5:33 Albuquerque, Sunny 88*

Big city with overpasses and everything! We're encountering a bit of traffic--rush hour, I guess. Still 51 miles to go...patience wearing thin.

6:15 Pit stop for dog (and us), 86*

We are hot and cranky and wishing we were there already. I'm drinking a beer in the moving car--desperate measures for desperate times. We're happy that we still haven't had to use much in the way of entertainment for the children--the wii, madlibs and Apples to Apples should help us tomorrow during our impossibly long drive. Matt is really excited about our gas mileage-25 MPG. I take my last swig as we exit the highway at 6:39 p.m. We will do a lap around the Plaza then head to Maria's New Mexican Kitchen for dinner.

Willa in front of Loretto Chapel.

The kids enjoying sopapillas at Maria's. Typical of southwestern cuisine, they are puffy, fried squares of dough that are ripped open then filled with honey. They smell like fresh doughnuts and are just heavenly. Each table gets a basketful with dinner. Despite our huge, chile-laden meals (and the best margaritas in Santa Fe), Matt and I found room for one too.

Grand Canyon in Pictures

A desert in bloom...

The most awesome thing to have ever happened to Ben--spotting a real, live California Condor. When we zoom in with our lense it's blurry, but you can still make out the large identification number (27) on its wing.

Do we look tired, or what? A long, but amazing day....

The vista, marred somewhat by a controlled burn. But still beautiful.

At Grandview Point...

At Bright Angel lodge. Some ice cream, and a view.

Willa decided soon after this picture was taken that she was "too nervous" and stayed away from the edge for the rest of our visit. A 5,000 foot drop is a long, long way to fall...

Some of the beautiful wildlife we saw along our journey. There were tons of cicadas (bottom right) at the Canyon, clicking away. Ben even scared an older lady with one that was crawling on his hand. Such a nice boy. Grrr...

Well, I'm going to try to get some sleep. The motel we picked not only backs up to a freeway, but also a train track with the Santa Fe line tooting its way by our room EVERY TWENTY MINUTES...no joke.